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Stapleton’s Concourse is impressive, but fasten your seat belts for some turbulence — The Know

Stapleton's Concourse is impressive, but fasten your seat belts for some turbulence — The Know

A brand new drink on the menu is the Bourbon for Apples, a spiced apple drink with Bulleit Bourbon, Tahitian vanilla, a splash of lemon juice, brown sugar vanilla bean easy syrup and served with purple apples and lime zest, at Concourse Restaurant Moderne in Stapleton on Oct. 22, 2018 in Denver. (Helen H. Richardson, The Denver Submit)

2.5 stars (out of four)

The final flight out of Stapleton airport took off greater than 20 years in the past, but the venue continues to encourage builders within the burgeoning northeast Denver neighborhood.

There are the apparent homages, like Punch Bowl Social’s second Colorado location, which was constructed across the unique air visitors management tower, and the forthcoming Constellation Ice Cream Store with its duplicate Lockheed Constellation wing.

Then there are locations like Concourse Restaurant Moderne, in Eastbridge City Middle, that incorporate extra delicate nods (see: the identify, the runway-like lighting above the bar, the globally influenced menu).

Concourse is the third eatery from chef/proprietor Lon Symensma, who is greatest recognized for downtown’s ChoLon (and its addictive soup dumplings). His first foray into Stapleton guarantees seasonally targeted, trendy American delicacies in a chic but approachable area.

The virtually 18-month-old restaurant — helmed by government chef/proprietor Luke Bergman — principally delivers. Although diners ought to anticipate some turbulence, to borrow a little bit of the unique website’s parlance.

The menu is eclectic but lacks cohesion. The main hiccup, nevertheless, is inconsistent service — an sudden blunder contemplating the reliability of Symensma’s different scorching spots.

Nonetheless, there is a lot to take pleasure in at Concourse. The intelligent, modern design, for one. Bergman’s creativity (dishes are plated superbly) and talent (pastas, desserts, pastries, and virtually all the breads are made in-house) are additionally apparent. If the workforce can clean out the experience, Denver commuters will buckle in.

Walnut wooden was used to create this distinctive ceiling to create an intimate feeling within the eating room at Concourse Restaurant Moderne in Stapleton on Oct. 22, 2018 in Denver. (Helen H. Richardson, The Denver Publish)

Vibe: The refined eating room and bar exude heat, but it’s the restaurant’s ceiling that calls for consideration, with its slats of darkish walnut rippling up the wall and throughout the banquettes and tables. It creates a way of motion and splendidly juxtaposes the in any other case basic, stylish design. The uncovered mild bulbs above the U-shaped bar are harking back to the glow of a runway, calling diners inside for a drink. There’s additionally a decent-sized patio overlooking the Eastbridge walkway and, contained in the entrance door, a modest espresso bar for grab-and-go pick-me-ups. The modern décor feels mild and dwelling room-esque when the solar beams by means of the restaurant’s giant home windows, but transforms right into a extra elegant, high-end area within the night.

The celery root soup is available in a large cup dressed with Granny Smith apple foam and pistachio brittle at Concourse Restaurant Moderne in Stapleton on Oct. 22, 2018 in Denver. (Helen H. Richardson, The Denver Submit)

Hits: Winter is coming, and soup must be on the menu. Particularly if it’s Bergman’s celery root creation ($9). The dish arrives like a cappuccino, topped with a frothy foam comprised of Granny Smith apples stewed with maple syrup. Hidden beneath is the creamy, not-too-heavy soup whose flavors are enhanced by sunchoke chips and a sticky brittle of pistachios, cocoa nibs and apple pectin crumbled on prime. It’s autumn in a cup.

For the primary course, dive straight into the scallops ($30). Sure, the mollusks — served about 4 to a plate — are completely cooked, but it’s their accompaniments that basically steal the (beautiful) plate. Spaetzle (dumpling-like egg noodles) are sautéed with fenugreek leaves, cayenne pepper and bitter cream, then paired with pickled breakfast radishes, pearl onions and paper-thin delicata squash slivers. All of it is served over a ginger juice-infused beurre blanc. There’s lots happening, but each ingredient performs properly with the others on this “zingy” (to borrow a server’s description) dish. Additionally, make sure to ask concerning the specials; there are two to 4 out there nightly.

Brunch is principally breakfast-focused, although there are a hamburger ($13), cheese plate ($13) and a few salads ($13) and pastas ($14 to $31) out there. These within the temper for eggs ought to choose for a skillet: Eggs in Purgatory ($12) is a vegetarian, shakshuka-like combo of runny eggs, stewed tomatoes  and gooey cheese. Meat-lovers will choose the chorizo and egg skillet ($13), which tastes like the within of a breakfast burrito but would profit from having the warmth degree kicked up by a notch or two. Each are served with a hulking piece of grill-kissed bread.

Candy-seekers will probably be glad with the brioche French toast ($12). The house-made bread is eggy and completely browned and comes topped with additional crispy Tender Stomach bacon. One grievance: The kitchen pre-drizzles the dish with maple syrup earlier than it arrives on the desk; we advise letting diners do it themselves.

Wagyu Beef Tataki is served with smoked egg mayo and enormous home made potato chips at Concourse Restaurant Moderne in Stapleton on Oct. 22, 2018 in Denver. (Helen H. Richardson, The Denver Submit)

Misses: Bergman’s expertise is apparent (the Florida native honed his expertise with the likes of Charlie Palmer and Danny Meyer), but it doesn’t come by way of equally in each dish. Many are good, not nice, and none rise to the identical degree because the aforementioned scallops. Admittedly, Bergman and Symensma main the kitchen units a excessive bar, but it’s one they’re greater than able to surpassing.

One starter, the Wagyu Beef Tataki ($16), is a buyer favourite but felt overly difficult. It arrived with a beneficiant portion of superbly marbled meat from the Western Slope’s 7X Beef sitting atop an oh-so-chefy smoked egg mayo (post-boiling, the eggs are smoked over hickory wooden). Perfection. The different half of the dish — much-too-tart pickled veggies and greasy house-made chips — dissatisfied. The idea of Asian-style nachos is interesting, if Bergman may even out the weather.

The pappardelle with Colorado-grown bison Bolognese ($22) confirmed potential in its simplicity — twirls of flat noodles tossed with a beneficiant serving of sauce and adorned with grated darkish chocolate — but the pasta was cooked properly previous al dente, leaving the dish principally texture-less, and the meaty centerpiece was unpleasantly candy.

Bergman makes all the desserts in-house. The milk chocolate Chantilly gold bar ($5) was delightfully chocolate-y, but the menu description’s promise of hazelnut and Feuilletine crunch (primarily, crispy crêpe crumbs) was left unfulfilled. It’s additionally a lot too small for sharing — until you’re OK with simply two or three small bites to finish your meal. For those who ask us, “shareable” is a prerequisite for all desserts.

A Paloma de Fuego with Milagro Silver, Vida Mezcal, Charred Grapefruit and Prosecco at Concourse Restaurant Moderne in Stapleton on October 22, 2018 in Denver. (Helen H. Richardson, The Denver Submit)

Drinks: Too typically lately, cocktail menus resemble books, overwhelming diners and, in some instances, displaying a scarcity of focus behind the bar. Not so at Concourse, the place the single-page lineup options 5 signature choices and 6 basic tipples (all $12). The former are extra thrilling twists on the acquainted, just like the sunshine-hued Paloma de Fuego, a boozy combo of silver tequila, Mezcal, charred grapefruit and Prosecco. The gin-based Forged Away packs much less of an alcoholic punch. The tight beer record ($7 to $eight) is comprised principally of Colorado’s heavy hitters: Odell, Nice Divide, Avery … you get the thought. Wine is obtainable by the glass, half-bottle or full; ask the sommelier for ideas in case you’re having hassle deciding.

At brunch, the bottomless Mimosa ($14) is probably the most logical order, seeing as the remainder of the cocktail choices are $12. But Bloody Mary devotees gained’t be disillusioned by Concourse’s barely thicker tackle the a.m. basic, which includes house-made combine and is stirred to your warmth (as in, spice degree) choice. There’s additionally a full espresso bar, together with chai lattes ($four) and French press service ($three to $eight).

Service: Unexceptional. Servers have been nice and responsive, but in a irritating sample, they responded with authority to questions on dishes or components — and their solutions later turned out to be incorrect. The focus, although, ought to be on offering a hotter welcome when friends stroll within the entrance door. On two events, nobody appeared at or close to the host stand till a couple of minutes after arrival. As soon as they did lastly greet diners, it took longer than essential to clear a desk — although, in each situations, reservations had been made, and at brunch, the restaurant was pretty quiet. Concourse seems to be refined and charming. Its service ought to mirror the identical qualities.

Backside Line: Concourse has loads of potential but isn’t fairly prepared for takeoff. The meals is constant but lacks the wow issue we’ve come to anticipate from these two worldly cooks, and repair must rise to the expectations set by the magnificence of the venue.

Worth: Cocktails and beers ($7 to $12); wines by the glass ($eight to $14); brunch ($5 to $31); appetizers and salads ($four to $16); pastas ($15 to $31); entrées ($18 to $30); desserts ($5 to $eight)

Enjoyable Reality: Chef-owner Lon Symensma is holding himself busy. The toque behind ChoLon Restaurant Ideas (CRC) just lately opened BorraCho Tacos on South Broadway. The taqueria took over his former Cho77 area, which can reopen within the coming months close to Symensma’s unique Denver eatery, ChoLon. But that’s not all: Denver diners can even sit up for testing LeRoux, a European-inspired idea from the CRC staff coming to LoDo this winter.

Discover extra restaurant evaluations from The Know.


Concourse Restaurant Moderne

10195 E. 29th Drive, Suite 140; 720-550-6934; concoursedenver.com

Hours: 11 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday to Thursday; 11 a.m. to 10 p.m., Friday; eight a.m. to 10 p.m., Saturday; eight a.m. to 9 p.m., Sunday

Reservations: Accepted

Parking: Lot


Star Score Information: Scores vary from zero to 4 stars. Zero is poor. One star, passable. Two stars, good. Three stars, excellent. 4 stars, wonderful.